Day 45 Welcome to Maryland

As we passed the Potomac River this morning, we entered our 6th state, Maryland. There's a unmanned, kind of a lighthouse at the edge of the harbor. Very cool to be so close to one at sea. The morning was uneventful again - good weather, but a little warmer. One interesting observation was there's a destroyer sitting at the mouth of the Potomac. Not sure if it's been there since 911 or it's there just in case of a sinister attempt over 4th of July. Winds started picking up as the day progressed and so did the seas. Pulled into the Patuxent River where it is lined with tall cliffs. Beautiful! Headed to Solomons Island and anchored in a little area called...yes, again, Mill Creek. I guess they have a Mill  Creek in every river up here. It's not as idyllic as last night's Mill Creek, but it's charming and it will do until we head to Annapolis early tomorrow morning. 

 

Day 44 Chesapeake Bay

We had nooooo idea how big this bay is. Left the dock at 7:40am to head for Mill Creek (Reedville, VA) - an anchorage suggested by Bernie and Carol. (Many thanks to them for all their help.) Passed tons of huge Navy ships and Fort Wood. It was a little choppy, but when we turned the corner at Fort Monroe, we started taking it on the the side and that made for a very rough ride. Thank goodness we had awesome weather - minimal winds, a high of 78 degrees and no storms. Despite good conditions, poor Jack got seasick again, he does not like bumpy seas. After a couple hours, we got between land again and the bay laid down. After a few more hours, it reminded me of the Gulf on a smooth day - the land was just on the opposite side. Not much to see today but open water, large dolphin and some crab traps - didn't even see that many boats after we left the harbor. However, at one point when I was on the wheel, I noticed a fin cutting the water coming directly at us from the side. I heard the dum, da dum, da dum, well, you know the tune. When it got close, I saw the other "fin". It was a huge manta ray swimming on the surface. Whew, we will not "need a bigger boat". Weaved our way back to a pristine anchorage. - quiet and lush. There's only three other boats on the hook back here with us. What a difference from this morning. There's some interesting fish nets all along the waterfront. The net is staked with a million little sticks. The fisherman come and empty the nets in the morning. I'm assuming it's fish since there's a bunch of crab traps here too. For Jack fans, no worries, he's recovered and chomping down his dinner as I type. Tomorrow we head to Solomons Island passing the Potomac River, which is right on the other side of this inlet and the mouth is about 10 miles wide. Unfortunately, our bucolic setting did not have Sprint internet so this blog entry is delayed. 

Day 43 Final day in Portsmouth

Madi and Cam brightened our lives for a day and a half and now they are continuing on their way back to Florida. We went to sleep and woke up to cool, windy weather - welcome relief from summer.  Later in the morning, we had a delicious breakfast with Bernie and Carol. I had Almond French Toast that was 3" thick and John had an omelet that was crammed full with ingredients. Good thing we only eat once or twice a day or we would be more over stuffed than his omelet. Bought some local honey and cantaloupe at the Saturday morning market, then it was time to change the last oil filter so John got that done before we head north early tomorrow morning. Took John back to the SkipJack store - a boater's nirvana. Our neighbors helped us plan out our route up the Chesapeake for the next few days. This is mile 0 for the ICW, so it takes a bit more charting and planning. Kevin and Morgan are vacationing with his family in Bethany Beach, Delaware - maybe we'll get to see them too. 

Day 42 Portsmouth with Madi and Cam

What a delightful day we got to spend with daughter número tres and Cam. They got in late last night and a very kind lady from the Renaissance next door let them park in a protected spot right in front of our dock. Had the best burritos and blueberry muffins this morning. Then we visited all the little shops in Portsmouth. John had to do some maintenance on the generator, but meanwhile Madi, Cam and I discovered the most awesome shop called SkipJack Nautical Ware. They had everything from new nautical decorations and clothes to vintage boat parts to old flags from ships - even antique Navy uniforms. However, 17 year old boys, who were about 98 pounds, must have previously owned them. Spent a long time snooping then bought some great finds. Chilled on the bridge - catching up,  then we had to let the kids experience the Art Deco theater, The Commodore, where we went the other night. They loved it. After the movie, we came back to a very high tide. We are getting a wonderful northeast wind, but it is bringing in some water with it. The waves are chopping over the boardwalk next to the boat. Tomorrow morning, Madi and Cam are continuing on their trip to Florida. Wish they could stay longer - so good to see loved ones. We will stay put till Sunday. 

Day 41 Exploring Norfolk

Started the morning by going through the Lightship Museum. These were boats that were used like lighthouses to guide the ships away from shoals. They were manned by 5 - 8 seamen. The US discontinued the use of them in the mid-'80's when technology replaced their need. We followed that up with a trip through the Arts Center. Their exhibits were on Folk and Kite Art. Some of the kites were very complicated and they all flew. Then we took the ferry to Norfolk. First we explored the Nauticus Museum which tells the history of the Navy. The destroyer, Wisconsin, is moored out back. Hell's Kitchen was our lunch destination - $1. beers and Seafood Nachos. They top their nachos with assorted seafoods like crab meat and, instead of salsa, they drizzle she-crab soup all over the mixture then top it with melted cheese, shredded lettuce and tomato. Very unusual and god-awful good! After nourishment, we were off to the MacArthur Memorial. The collection is housed in the old courthouse which is stately and massive. The museum documents MacArthur's entire life and is very informative about all the conflicts he participated in. I didn't realize he was President of the 1928 Olympics, because of his dedication to physical fitness. One of the most awe inspiring things on display was the piece of the deck where the Japanese Empiror stood when he signed the  "instrument of surrender" ending WWII.  Douglas and his second wife are entombed in the museum - yes, buried right there in the middle of the foyer. When they closed, we ferried back to our boat. By the way, all of these attractions were free.  Madi and Cam arriving tonight.  Not sure what's in store for us tomorrow. 

Day 40 Portsmouth and Norfolk

Today was a turning point in our trip and a phenomenal day. One of the biggest benefits of this journey is the people you meet and the knowledge you gain from them. We had breakfast with Robert, the bridge and lock tender. He is an accomplished conch shell player and a fascinating historian of the area. He also gave us some advice - "don't plan more than a half day in advance." Basically , STOP and smell the roses of this great adventure. We were going to blow past Norfolk because it was a big busy port, but this couple we met in the Dismal Swamp, Bernie and Carol, and Robert talked us out of that idea. We are so glad they did. When we entered the port - it is overwhelming - the size, the bridges, the ships, the buildings, the Navy Yard. The harbor is freaking amazing from the water. We hooked up to a free dockage by the ferries right in the historic district. First, we visited the Hill Museum. This house, built in 1805, was home to 4 generations of Hills. When it was bequeathed to the historic society, the family left all of the contents in the home. You see and touch their clothes, their dishes, their linens, their portraits - their lives. It was a trip through time - 4 stories of it. We also went to the Maritime Museum - very informative. Tonight we went to The Comadore Theater, a renovated movie house from the '40's. They serve food and drink while you sit in comfortable chairs at a table. The screen is huge and modern, but they restored all the original murals and decorations and kept it the flavor of it's time. Admission is only $7. Crazy! We saw Jersey Boys, which we highly recommend. It was a fun evening we enjoyed with Bernie and Carol. Today, I think, our attitude changed. We are not only doing a jounrney, we are now savoring  it. Staying another day to explore some more, but more importantly, Madi and Cam are coming to visit us tomorrow. Can't wait to see them! 

Day 39 More of the Swamp

Had more pictures to share so I needed to do a part 2 since the Blog only allows so many per entry. Oh, by the way, we are in Virginia now. Half the Swamp is in NC and half in VA. The VA state workers have a sense of humor labeling some of the more interesting houses in the Swamp. The top pic has a sign out front that says "Supervisor's House". There was also an unusual defunct bridge that was on rollers. Decades ago, it must have slid out and connected the fields. Besides turtles, we only saw one Herron on our journey today. After John got done toiling in the engine room, we took the old oil to the auto shop then wandered around the city of Deep Creek. That took less time than it took him to change the oil. Not a big town, but it had the best pizza joint. Split the biggest calzone I've ever seen ($9.99) and watched a soccer game. We see less and less TV on the boat. Is there anything we should be aware of going on in the world?! Happy Anniversary to our dear Brandi and Danny! On to Norfolk and Chesapeake Bay tomorrow after having coffee and donuts with the lock/bridge tender, Robert...like I said, a small town. 

Day 39 Lost in the Dismal Swamp

Well, we're not really lost, we just haven't left yet. Spent an amazing, cool, crisp morning drinking in the subtle wonders of the swamp. I took some Dali- esque pictures of reflections in the water. I think I caught the image of the Swamp Witch. We were totally alone because of the lock system - symphony of birds in the background. So relaxing before heading to the hustle and bustle of Norfolk. Then we got to the exit lock and John spied an Advanced Auto Parts store and decided this was the place to change the oil. Since they have to order the filters and they will not get here until tomorrow morning, we are spending another night in the swamp. This afternoon, it got much hotter than the last few days. We picked up some supplies at the local Food Lion, John worked in the engine room, then we are heading out to do some exploring...and maybe get a pizza. 

Will send more pictures of the swamp after the hotspot charges.

Day 38 The Dismal Swamp

"Finally made it to the Great Dismal Swamp Welcome Center. The 18 miles to get here was untouched Cypress forests with very little signs of civilization. The waters were tranquil; there were turtles sunning and birds talking all along the way. We were boating with 3 sailboats so it was a slow go, but that was fine. Made it to the Swamp lock and swing bridge which has been there forever. They are both run by the same guy with his little dachshund. After he open and closes the lock, he jumps in his pick-up and goes over and opens the bridge a 1/8 mile down the canal. He's been doing this for 3 decades. The Welcome Center is also a rest stop for a highway - very unexpected. We thought we would be out in the middle of...well, a swamp. The history of this place is fascinating dating back to George Washington who purchased like 400 acres as an investment. It didn't pan out so he eventually sold his land to Gen. Robert E. Lee's daddy, who was a poor businessman. He ended up selling it back to Washington's heirs. Much later, slaves dug it out around 1800 to make it passable again. The people in charge made them "earn" their blankets, so if it got cold and the slave didn't have a blanket, he would roll in the swamp mud and coat himself with layers to keep warm. Ironically, decades later, the swamp and canal became part of the Underground Railroad. The stories go on and on. So back to present day - there is limited dockage here at the Welcome Center so we are doing our first "rafting". Fortunately, the couple next to us are very nice and very informative about the Chesapeake Bay, our next stop. They are heading south and said the next part of our trip (heading north) is more remote and  scenic. We may see some wildlife like bobcats, deer or bears. Hoping to see more than trucks and motorcycles stopping to use the restroom and nasty green flies. 

Day 37 Elizabeth City still

Last night, we ate at a delightful restaurant, Cypress Creek, for dinner.  Had shrimp and oysters wrapped together with bacon for an appetizer - Lordy, that was some good eatin'. Met some fellow travelers and residents on the waterfront and exchanged stories-  a pleasant evening in Elizabeth City. Got up early this morning to leave for the Swamp, but after checking out the radar, we decided to stay put till some stormy weather passed. The lock to the Swamp only opens at certain times and we weren't going to make the opening we wanted, so by noon, we decided to stay one more day in Elizabeth City. Walked around the historic area of town. Met some great people at the Tiki Hut. Had a delicious dinner with 2 of them at the Japanese restaurant. It's fascinating how many people we've met live exclusively on their boats - for years. Later we met a couple of guys from Whales sailing on a ferro - cement boat. Learned a lot from all the boaters we met today.  This is truely a friendly town. The city's hospitality theme started with 2 guys that use to greet visiting boaters with roses and maybe an impromptu party. After they died, the city transplanted their rose plants to the waterfront for everyone to enjoy. Notice our boat's "brown mustache" from the tannins in the River water. Definitely leaving for the Dismal Swamp tomorrow at 7:30am. But now we are leaving with a couple of new friends, Bruce and Jar on Pegasus 2. 

Day 36 Elizabeth City

We are having a great time in Elizabeth City. Yesterday, I had just finished posting our blog when I looked up and a bride-to-be in a wedding dress went flying by the door. She was doing bridal pictures for her upcoming wedding in September. Her aunt asked if they could take pictures on the boat. Of course! The happy couple's names are Carla and Jeff. She climbed on board like an ol' salt sailor maneuvering her beautiful wedding dress with ease.  What a random, awesome surprise! This morning, the Farmer's market was right outside our door, as promised. Also a kitty who Jack did not like being near his boat. Bought some of the most delicious blueberries we have ever tasted and home-made peach ice cream - yum. The folks are friendly - hmmm, maybe we'd like to live here. Had crabcakes that were nothing but tasty crab meat for lunch, then visited the museum in the afternoon - very thorough and full of artifacts. Considering staying another day before heading to the Swamp.

Day 35 Safe in Elizabeth City after the Albemarle Sound pt 2

Made it across Albemarle Sound just before the afternoon storms. We dodged hundreds of crab trap bouys. John says he's definitely having crab cakes tonight.  We passed the TCOM blimp plant where they build blimps for companies like Fugi and Monster.com right near the Coast Guard Base. The base is the largest and most diverse command center in the nation. The blimp building is massive. As we were pulling into our free anchorage at the city docks called Mariner's Wharf, also known as the "Harbor of Hospitality", the radio announced a waterspout in the Sound. Whew! We were met on the dock by Gus and a friend who made our tie up a breeze. We talked to Gus for a good long time learning the hot spots of Elizabeth City. Gus is an amazing character, who has lived here for over 50 years. His family was one of the first to develop the Outer Banks and he even sold Andy Griffith the  land where he built his home - they were friends until his death. First stop, was a bookstore where we found more needed guide books, then we explored the city after a cooling rain. Some guy had a baby monkey on the docks that took a liking to John. He about crawled down his shirt - the owner had to pry him off of John after he started chewing on his shirt collar and wrapped himself around his arm.  It was quite a comical site...for me anyway. They have some interesting art centers and lots of restaurants - typical small town America. There's a Saturday morning market right next to our boat dockage tomorrow. Yippee - local fresh veggies and fruit. Then we are going to the Albemarle Museum which is huge, state museum and it's FREE. What is it with this town?!! More storms tonight and tomorrow so we are glad we are tied to a non-moveable dock. We are staying for a couple days - it's free for crying out loud!! 

Day 35 Albemarle Sound pt 1

What a night! Got a few texts, voicemails and comments asking what happened and were we alright. We were and are, but last night was a bit hairy. We didn't have cell service or internet so we did not see a large thunderstorm coming our way. The sky was like 4th of July fireworks. Boat radar did not paint a clear picture until it hit. When we anchored earlier, I suggested  an open area of Little Alligator River, which was not the best location. Our anchor held and we suffered no damage -  only to my nerves (we were actually surprised we had a bimini this morning). John was a rock. Me? Not so much. Beautiful cool weather this morning so we are crossing the sound. It's a bit rough for Jack - he had some tummy track problems but is resting now. Heading for a free dockage in Elizabeth City and we are staying put for a couple days before entering the Dismal Swamp area. More later....

Day 34 Alligator River (intermittent internet Fri am)

Couldn't get internet last night or today, so blogs will come in bulk when we get close to Elizabeth City tomorrow.  Even tried roaming networking and there ain't nothin' out here. Crossed the Pamlico River, which more resembles a large bay, early this morning. Was amazed when I saw a very small sailboat, maybe 14', that we have seen off and on since Fernandino Beach, Fl. It looks like a canoe with a couple sails and a pontoon attached with supplies. Two guys are on it and they must be sailing day and night- we get ahead of them and then a week later we pass them again. I tried hailing them on the radio, but they must not have one. We will have to keep an eye out for them again and get a picture. Would love to talk to the adventurous twosome to find out what they are trying to accomplish. After the Pamlico, we entered  the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal or maybe it's the "not quite so dismal swamp". It took us about 40 miles away from the Outer Banks and was 20 miles long. The River goes on f-o-r-e-v-e-r. Houses pop up ever so often or a million dollar bridge with no cars crossing it. (NC must have some savvy representatives in Congress). There's all kinds of foliage (blocking the air movement) - pine, cypress, juniper, maybe elms, trees covered in vines. I think it's safe to say we will not run out of pilings or telephone poles for awhile. Then on the bank, I spied the tiniest spotted fawn. It was maybe 18" high - not as tall as Brandi's Kayo. Freaking unreal! You'll have to look close in the second picture. It's in the dead center under the foliage right above the river waterline. When we popped out into the open mouth of the River, the landscape looked prehistoric. There was not a sign of civilization in site...anywhere. I was honestly looking for dinosaurs when out of nowhere, 2 jet fighters started buzzing us. They were loud. Remember the scene from Top Gun where Tom buzzes the Control Tower? Well, we were the guy with the coffee. Since this place lacks any sort of development, John thought this might be their practice area. Did an extra long day of 72 miles to Little Alligator Inlet/River. Tomorrow will be a shorter day crossing the Albemarle Sound to the city docks of Elizabeth City...and internet.

Day 33 Beaufort Inlet and beyond (delayed for lack of internet)

I have to acknowledge the showers at the marina in Spooner's Creek. If you have ever been on a boat or RV for awhile or lived in an apartment in VI, you can relate. This is the first "land shower" I've had in over a month. Ecstasy! A strong stream of hot water and a bench  in a clean, new, large shower stall - I  wanted to live there for the evening. Jack must have had the same desire, because he wanted out and on land all night. John would take him for a walk and all the way back to the boat, he would have to carry him hissing and growling. Never seen him act like that before. Today he's back to normal sprawled out on the galley floor. Decided to forego Beaufort (pronounced Bo-fort with a long O as opposed to SC's town, spelled the same, which is pronounced Bu-fort with a long U and the residents WILL correct you) after researching the city more and boated past Morehead, which is a busy port like Tampa. Looks like they are shipping phosphate - tons of barges. Cruised the Neuse River most of the day. It's between the Outer Banks and the mainland - a very large body of water, but the tide was with us and we had good weather. There were lots of shrimpers with their nets out. Not sure how much they were catching, but they were attracting a lot of birds.  As we approached our anchorage,  the landscape changed again. The trees are tall, skinny pine trees, but different from ours in Florida. We are again in the middle of nowhere . . . or Campbell Creek. Stopped somewhat early, took a nap during the hot time of the day then did some small jobs. After watching one of the most beautiful sunsets so far, we took some time to research our trips through the Dismal Swamp then the Chesapeake.

Day 32 Onward to Beaufort

There was a lot to see in the morning. We passed 2 small precious deer on the ocean side of the ICW. Then we were buzzed for about an hour by 4 big V-22 Ospeys (aircrafts not birds) doing maneuvers with 2 helicopters observing. Signs were a bit ominous like "Danger - live unexploded ordnance" and "Do not enter - Live firing". I do not want to live here, but John does. It IS beautiful, just a little too unpredictable for me.  I guess you have to have a sense of humor to reside in this area. The blue trimmed house had a smile on the back wall along with multi-colored dock pilings. Some bombing practice was going to take place 12 miles out and the radio was warning boaters to stay away. No need to tell us twice! Found a house we could afford in Swanboro. I think it's having an Open House on Sunday- hope we can make it back. Crossed a calm bay between the outer banks and the inner banks to Spooner's Creek.  Fueled up and spending the night in a pristine, small marina. Walked a mile to Walmart for supplies - so much more than marina stores! I have never appreciated Walmart more. As we were putting groceries away and discussing plans of whether to go through the Dismal Swamp, we ignored Jack for a minute. When we looked for him, discovered that he had jumped ship. Found him strolling down the dock heading to the condos. He has been cantankerous ever since his plot to find grass was thwarted. Passing Beaufort Inlet and a port in Morehead tomorrow heading north and inland toward our anchorage.