Day 107 Frankfort

Was not a clear, sunny day, but we left Leland for Frankfort with hopes that the weather would improve - and it did. Wore a couple layers of clothing on the way here, but as soon as we passed the breakwaters, (pic 2) the sun came out and it was a gorgeous day. (Pic 3 is the view from our dock) After leaving Leland, we passed the Sleeping Bear, which is a massive sand dune. (Pic 1) Chippewa legend says that an enormous forest fire on the western shore of Lake Michigan drove a mother bear and her two cubs into the lake for shelter. After many miles of swimming trying to reach the other side, the two cubs lagged behind. When the mother bear reached the shore, she waited on the top of a high bluff. The exhausted cubs drowned in the lake, but the mother bear stayed and waited in hopes that her cubs would finally appear. Impressed by the mother bear's determination and faith, the Great Spirit created two islands, North and South Manitou, to commemorate the cubs, and the winds buried the sleeping bear under the sands of the dunes where she waits to this day. The park around the dunes extends for 35 miles. Who knew the Michigan shoreline was this beautiful?! After we docked, we saw Capt. Diane and Peggy, who we had run into at a couple of other marinas. They are also doing the Great Loop, but since Peggy is still working, they travel 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off. Then our new found friends, Becky and Dell pulled in in their sailboat. Had an entertaining evening sitting around a picnic table swapping stories with everyone. This has been one of the biggest assets of the trip - meeting such a multitude of wonderful people. Update on the damaged Chris Craft in Little Current - the Pugliese's emailed us and after returning to Killarney, "Dr. Wayne" did some wood surgery and she looks good as new. So happy to hear it! Storms are suppose to move in on Labor Day so we may be here tomorrow too. Will know more when the sun comes up! 

Day 106 last day in Leland

By the looks of the day, we should be boating. After the early rains, it went up to 77 degrees, sunny with a decent breeze. However, out past the breakwater, the seas are 4 - 6 foot with "occasional 8 foot waves" combined with 20 knot winds coming from the south again. We've been watching some of the boats come in and out and they are bouncing big time when they are outside of the confines of the protected weather. When we asked Jack if he wanted to go this morning, he said "NO" and took a nap. The quiet little village has turned into a crowded tourist town. Lots of people here for the holiday weekend. Walked another one of their beaches again - Van's is a popular spot that is located - where else - behind Van's car repair, which seems to cater to vintage cars. We just never imagined that Michigan had a shoreline like this. Went to an art show, then took a final stroll around Fishtown. Some of these shanties date back to 1905. They have these big spinning wheels outside the sheds for drying the trap nets. The nets are used to catch whitefish, which is what we had for lunch today - smoked, along with other species. The local Indian population and the whites have been feuding for years over netting and netting rights. They have recently come to an agreement which should replenish the fish population and help both groups. When we were boating to Beaver Island, we unknowingly got in the middle of some of these massive nets. We had a few anxious moments until we found our way out of the flags and bouys. Tomorrow is suppose to be a good boating day so we will head to Frankfort. 

Day 105 More of Leland

Woke up this morning to rain and more rain. When it cleared out, it looked good enough to leave, but the dock master said what we saw in the protected inlet was not what was going on out on the lake. Out there, seas were 4 foot with 20 - 25 knot winds from the south which meant taking it on the nose - forget that, so we are in Leland today again. After noon, the sky turned blue and we took a walk on the beach. You can see it on the other side of the marina breakwater. The water was not too bad temp-wise. Lake Michigan was a beautiful shade of sea green and reminded me of the Gulf - just unsalted. Their motto up here is "just like the ocean except no salt- no sharks". Searched the shore for pretty rocks which are quite abundant. It actually got up to 80 today and we broke out the shorts. Walked around the vintage village of Fishtown. They damed the little river in 1854 so at one end of the village is a man-made waterfall. More rain is predicted for tonight and tomorrow morning, but if it passes quickly enough, we will take off for Frankfort much to Jack's chagrin. (Cudos to Brandi - good job, baby girl!) 

104 Leland, MI

The dock master suggested an early departure from Beaver Island to get the best wind direction, so we left around 7:30am for our 7 hour ride to Leland. The first pic is a parting shot of Beaver Island which was given its name by the French traders who hunted the beaver pelts in the 1600's. Would have liked to have stayed there longer, but foul weather is coming, so we needed to take advantage of calm seas. The next shot is the lighthouse sans the house - it was torn down years ago. Notice how calm Lake Michigan is. Most of our boating today was done on water that was as smooth as glass. The winds were calm and refreshing - not freezing. We thought the coast of the Leelanau area was rocky like Canada but when got closer, we realized the "rock" was actually eroded terrain exposing sand that ran down to the water. The town of Leland is built on the site of one of the oldest and largest Ottawa villages on the Leelanau Peninsula. The narrow river that runs through here flows into Lake Michigan and was a traditional ladder Indian fishing ground. The settlement was called Mishi-me-go-bing meaning "the place where canoes run up into the river to land, because they have no harbor". Seems like the Native Americans were a little more succinct with their wording than us. The white man came in the 1830's and developed assorted industries including fishing. There are all these old fishing shacks along the river which are now cute stores and restaurants. Explored it a little after we docked then had delicious white fish chowder. Bought some smoked fish and spread at Carlson's, whose store has been here for 5 generations. The area has quite a few wineries. Stopped at one for some tastings. Loved the blackberry cider. We may be stuck here for a couple days because of a front moving in. The dock master says it's "going to get very sloppy on the lake". At least this is an interesting and enjoyable place to get stuck in. 

Day 103 Beaver Island

After I sent the blog yesterday, we biked around St. Ignace. Found an amazing museum that started as a private collection and blossomed into a very thorough and extensive assembly of Indian artifacts and local historical items dating back to the 1600's. The gift shop was exceptional, too, because it had authentic Native American made objects for sale along with some museum pieces. Very interesting stop. The docent sent us across the street for a local delicacy, white fish livers, prepared by a Native American chef. They were very rich. Tasted a lot like chicken livers pan fried with onions, but glad we tried them since I doubt if we will ever see them again on a restaurant menu. Then we rode to the local grocery store. Why are they all located up steep hills?! Took off this morning after a short rain shower and  boated under the famous 4 mile long Mackinac Bridge. Welcome to Lake Michigan. There were ferry boats buzzing everywhere already at 9am. They tour the bay and bridge and take tons of tourists to Mackinac Island.  We bi-passed this historical island where no cars are allowed - travel is by horse or bike. We heard that the little harbor is crazy with ferries - constant waves, and it has gotten very touristy. The magnificent Grand Hotel there boasts the longest veranda in the world, but it's gotten so commercial that if you aren't staying in the hotel, you have to pay $10. to walk around on it. A little choppy on the lake, wind out of the NW, but not bad.  A cold front moved through yesterday afternoon so the temps fell to the 50's and it was freezing on the 6 hour trip to Beaver Island, but after we docked, it rebounded to a sunny 70 degrees. Crazy Michigan weather. Explored the little village next to the marina. It resembles an old west town from the 1800's. The cute little post office use to be the rowdy saloon. One old building I visited was originally a print shop owned by a Morman named Stang who broke away from the traditional church. He basically founded the island as a sanctuary. He wrote a book of rules and declared himself "King". He had about 2000 followers on the island; however, two of them became disgruntled and assassinated him. The disgusted mainlanders then stormed the island and drove all the Mormons off. After that, the Irish fishermen took over. Their influence still exists in the island's arts. Logging was also a boost to the island's economy. The place developed a lawless reputation until it was incorporated into a neighboring county around the turn of the century. Today the 660 residents mostly depend on tourism...we did our part. 

Day 102 St. Ignace

Woke up to an amazing sky. Got out early to take advantage of somewhat smooth seas on Lake Huron. It's cool again after the front moved through, but warmed up after we hit the shores of St. Ignace. It was a six hour run to our next municipal marina - again, very well maintained. Wind really kicked up right after we passed Mackinaw Island giving us a taste of what the Great Lakes can be like and confirming why we have to keep an eye on the weather, wind, currents and waves. St. Ignace brags to be one of the first 4 permanent settlements in the U.S. Lighthouses are everywhere in the north and Michigan has more than any other state with 115. They are every shape and size. In DeTour, you can stay in one for a four day weekend , and for a fee, you can be a temporary lighthouse keeper - cleaning, tending the structure, and giving tours. The north also has it's share of strange bugs. The insect picture is of a May Fly. To evaluate how skewed the summer temps have been, these critters should have been spawning in May or June (hence their name); however, they are just coming out now. These creepy looking aquatic insects are much bigger than a normal fly, but except for making a mess on the boat, they are perfectly harmless. In their final stage of life, known as dun,  they are also excellent bait used by the local fisherman. Borrowing some bikes from the marina and going to explore the town. 

Day 101 DeTour

Woke up to a perfect morning - cool and sunny AND we are staying put. Love traveling and seeing new sights, but it's also nice to pause for a day and regroup especially in a quaint little seaside village. Rode the marina bike down the street to the main village and did not pass a car the whole way. Love this place. It is so relaxing and just comfortable. As I was reading the display sign on the main thorofare through town that located all businesses, a group of geese crossed the street - that was the most traffic I had seen up to that point.  Across the road is a huge tree carving of an old sailor. The sculpture is called " The Passage Keeper". I asked the locals about it and they said that a guy carved it with a chain saw about 7 years ago when the tree started to die. Instead of cutting it down completely, he shaped a lighthouse keeper out of the trunk. The old man use to have a latern hanging from his hand, but the owner moved and took that with him. He was not an artist and had little knowledge of what he was doing, but he carved an amazing creation. Weather turned gray and cold around lunchtime. The surrounding townships got severe storms, but we were spared - so far. Went to lunch at the Shipwreck Cafe and got a local favorite called "a pastie", which is cubed potatoes, shredded beef, carrots and rutabaga wrapped in a thick pastry shell. Decades ago, the minors would carry them down in the mines for lunch - kept warm in a pail wrapped in newspapers next to a thermos of coffee. Very tasty and excellent comfort food on a rainy day. Later, we may head back to the Village Inn for another of their decadent burgers that we had last night for dinner. American fare - it's good to be "home". 

Day 100 Back in the USA

Left the sweet little confines of Thessalon for our  North Channel crossing this morning. Had 15 mph winds on the beam till Drummond Island then we got hit with a thick fog bank. Luckily it cleared before we reached the dock. Got through customs just before noon. No problems. Had to buy a $27.50 sticker to get back into the US. Did a pump out and took off for DeTour marina an hour away, which is a waaaay nicer facility than the one in Drummond.  Michigan marinas are state run and this one is run well - not very populated, but brand new and clean. It's seasonal and shuts down at the end of September to prepare for winter. They use an interesting system of keeping their docks from freezing - there are tubes under the docks that blow air and form bubbles to keep the surrounding water activated so it won't freeze. Took a walk around the village - it's very simple but pristine. All the yards of the 430 residents are manicured. DeTour was established in the early 1800's under another name. Since most commerce was by water at that time, all traffic from Mackinac Island and Detroit to Sault, Lake Superior and Canada came past here.  Since ships and canoes made a turn to go west to Mackinac or southeast to Detroit, boaters called the place "De Tour" which means, in French, "the turn", so in 1899, the residents changed their name officially to DeTour. The Chippewa Indian name for this area was 'Giwideonaning' meaning, "Point which we go around in a canoe". I guess DeTour was easier to spell on signs. Will meander up later to get a burger and a beer at a local pub. Going to hunker down here for 2 days till a small front passes, winds are already building, then we are heading down the east coast of Lake Michigan. 

Day 99 Thessalon our last day in Canada

The little township of Thessalon takes us as far north as we are going. Our latitude is N46 degrees 15' 15" - from now on we head south or west. Right before we pulled anchor this morning, we saw a baby black bear slurping up blueberries off the bushes. He's right above the water. - you can see his little black outline on the rocks. The weather started out cool, but as we hit port, it felt like a perfect Florida fall day. The marina is small, new, private and supplies bikes to go to town. There's only a few other boats here. The view off the front of our bow is beautiful - America, the Beautiful, that is. If you look reeeeally hard, you can see the USA border about 7 miles out. Biked into town - what there is of it. It's another one of those little villages that can't quite attract tourists or retain a population. Bought some wild Canadian blueberry jam - wanted to taste what the bear had eaten. Got some local knowledge back at the marina about Michigan then biked back to the town for a burger and fish reuben. Tomorrow we go through customs at Drummond Island then the plan is to anchor close by. 

Day 98 John Island and the Bears

Pulled anchor in a mix of cloud and sun, which turned to cloud and light fog for the duration of our trip to John Island. We passed several large canoes with like 14 rowers in each one. We are near one of several Indian reservations. Canadian Indians are called First Nation or their tribe name. There must be some kind of event going on since police boats were monitoring and a huge Canadian Coast Guard was in the area. John Island is yet another scenic, bucolic anchorage. The water is the color of liquid charcoal. The sun came out as we set the hook and it turned into delightful weather. It's the first time in weeks that I put on shorts. Ii have been diligently searching the shores and mountains since we got to Canada for a bear, today we finally spied a beautiful jet black one foraging for food along the rocks right in front of our boat. Just in time since we are leaving our northern neighbor in 2 days. She's right in the middle of the first picture. The other pics are our views from the boat. The light was such that you can't tell up from down. The only down-side is at dusk, ferocious, tiny mosquitoes came out to feast. Thank goodness for screens. (Kisses and hugs to Brandi.)

Day 97 The Benjamin's

Hung around Little Current in the morning doing this and that. Finally not raining - it was not totally clear when we left, but the sun was trying to peak out and it wasn't freezing. We'll take it. Headed out to anchor again for a few days before we return to the USA at Drummond Island, Michigan. Our stop today is The Benjamin's, which are ancient molten formations created billions of years ago before the earth had an atmosphere. The rock is smooth pink granite and a favorite destination to visit by locals and travelers like us for good reason. It's unique, magnificent, awe-inspiring, ummm....obviously, I am having trouble relating how impressive this place is and the pictures don't do it justice. We dinked to a couple spots in the basin and just drank in the magnitude of this place - laid on the rocks loving the silence and soLitude. To think that it is only available for a few months a year and only by people who can boat here. We are truly privileged to have seen and explored the Benjamin's. Do I want to make a home here? No, but for a day? Absolutely. We climbed over this one mound and gazed out at the North Channel. The boulder formations looked like they could come to life. Maybe I've seen too many Marvel movies, but the rocks had personality. As the day progressed, it warmed up to the high 70's. Glorious. With the approach of evening, we watched an otter rushing in and out of the water catching his dinner then devouring it up on the rocks. Better than the Discovery Channel. 

Day 96 Weather still unsettled

The weather radio says the showers are diminishing, but then this morning, we had dense fog. We DID hear a wolf howling last evening, a very eerie sound. Finally got boating around 10:30 and got to the Little Current Swing Bridge at 11:45. It opens on the hour so John had to hold her for 15 minutes. All the waterway guides warn you about the currents around the bridge and the marina docks. Made it through the bridge and, fortunately, the town marina put us at an easy access T dock. John did an expert job of docking, but I was glad we had two able-bodied dock hands to help.  As we were settling in, a 25' vintage Chris Craft was attempting to leave. The current caught them, slammed them against the corner of a dock, and then the sickening sound of beautifully restored wood crunching. You can see the gaping hole right after the first fender in the picture. The owner had spent the last two years restoring the 1955 classic. The damage was between the stringers so it will be easier to repair. Our hearts bled for the couple. John assisted him in patching it with a piece of plywood and they were on their way back to Killarney. The town should have been named A Hellava Current, not Little Current. This is a  classic Canadian waterfront village with several stores and eateries. We asked some people on the street where the best fish and chips were and this nice guy drove us to his favorite place. The grocery store was right around the corner, so after stuffing ourselves, we picked up a couple things then walked back to the boat. Heard it was going to get cold again after this rain. Darn, just when it was getting to be a toasty 65 degrees. Hoping it's warmer in the states. 

Day 95 Heywood Island

Left the beauty of Killarney Bay in gray skies. (First 2 pics) The sky was still impressive last night, but not quite as large and encompassing as last night. Rain threatened most of the 2 1/2 hour trip to Heywood Island. We anchored in Browning Cove (third pic) in a light shower. When we got here, we were all alone, by 5 pm,  we had 11 neighbors. After anchoring, we spent hours planning our trip through the Northern Bay. Nothing else to do when it's overcast and cold with storms looming. Not in the mountains today. These islands are flat with dense, short pine forests.  The guide books have promised us bear sightings and wolf howling in this area. The advertised "beach" in Heywood is a 10' wide dirt area on shore with a picnic table. We can now understand why Florida's beaches are so popular with Canadians if this is our competition. The next stop is the town of Little Current tomorrow for supplies and local knowledge. 

Day 94 Transversing the Georgian Bay

Struck out early to get onto the bay before the waves and winds kicked up. Homey don't mess with an angry Georgian Bay. Fortunately, it was about half foot seas, calm and sunny. We only had three layers on today. It's warming up, but it's still cold on the bridge. As I gazed out the back of the boat, the islands with sun glittering off of them, reminded me of the Carribean. However, when you looked over the bow, the mountains and rocky shore resembled the American west. We've gone over 2500 miles thus far.  Today was the end of the Georgian Bay and now we start the North Channel. From what we've seen so far, this new area is vastly different from it's neighbor. The mountains are ancient and low but magnificent. We entered Killarney Channel, passed by the tiny port town and boated to Killarney Bay. We are in one of the most beautiful and serene anchorages yet. The water is a deep jade color and clear. Words cannot de caribe the solitude and beauty of this place. I don't think I could live here, but I want to drink in every inch and moment spent here. Hoping the rain holds off so we can see another star-filled sky tonight. 

Day 93 After we left Parry Sound

Well, first I need to correct the name in the last blog from Jim Horton to Tim Horton. Sacrilege. 

The seas were really calm and we made good time after we left the marina this morning, but we were still wearing four layers of clothing. We decided to pass up Hopewell and continue on to Bayfield Harbour. Then after three attempts to anchor securely failed, we boated a mile down the channel to an unnamed basin where we had no problem at all. The ride today was amazing in a couple ways. The rocks were again different - the stryations run horizontal and the formations took on a green color. No cliffs - the rock beds went on and on - the terrain is so foreign to us. Then there was the navigating of it. As Carrie Underwood says - Lord, take the wheel.  Channels were narrow like some of the others we've done but there were no walls. Hangdog Channel was barely wider than our boat and you make 140 degree turns. You just tiptoe through massive flat rocks. I don't know who marked these channels, but it must have been one nerve wracking  job. (Pic 1) We passed the 1889 Point Au Baril Lighthouse and the barrel that sits atop a bolder designating safe harbor. Was glad to anchor in the solitude of the unmarked inlet for the night. After sunset, we went out to look at the sky. It was spectacular, dazzling, totally encompassing from horizon to horizon. I felt insignificant yet privileged to be in this spot at this time to see such magnificence. 

Day 93 Georgian Bay

Taking off this morning for Hopewell Bay. Woke up to the most pleasureable weather we have seen in a week. Everyone was ready to get up, get under way and blow this taco stand - except for Jack who vehemently and quite vocally refused to get out of bed when I tried to make it. The basin looks like liquid glass. Remember we will be on the hook for 3 or 4 days, maybe more, so we will not be able to post blogs - our wifi doesn't work in Canada. Have to boat some miles to make up for the down time. Will continue to write entries and send them when we get to a marina or a Jim Horton (JH is kind of like Starbucks and Subway met and had a super baby) with internet again. Looks like we have decent conditions for at least 3 days - cool, but sunny with no rain or high winds. It's going up to 77 by Wednesday. Woohoo! Can put away the Columbia winter jacket - hopefully.